Isle of Skye – Fairies Live Here

Wednesday Aug 6 – To Dunvegan and Isle of Skye

After a typically nice Scottish breakfast at Myrtle Bank Guest House, we checked out, got a taxi to EasyDrive Scotland, and picked up our Toyota Aygo X. This is a VERY small car, but there was enough room for us, our packs, and our suitcases. The only thing that was really strange was that it was a right-hand drive car! Now, I already knew this would be the case, but actually driving it? In addition to that, it was a stick shift transmission! I also kind of knew this would be the way it would be but reality soon sunk in.

I got on the very busy highway and didn’t do too bad, except I always kept drifting to the left, away from the other traffic. It was really strange going around one of the many, many roundabouts we came to as we headed for Isle of Skye.

Eventually, we were cruising along at what seemed an extraordinarily high speed (everyone drives really fast here!) just trying to keep up with the flow of traffic.

Our route took us northeast, then northwest through many small villages and along many lochs. It is not easy to just pull off to the side for traffic to pass because there is no way to anticipate where any place will be beside the few “parking” pull-outs – but they’re few and far between.

We did finally get to Eileen Donan Castle and pulled into this attraction’s parking lot. It was a good place to stop – for a driving break and to see this restored castle. We were quite impressed with how well the family that owns this castle has restored it. The walk through was really enjoyable and not too crowded. This is supposed to be the most photographed Scottish castle. It was actually fun and interesting.

We left Eileen Donan and drove northwest toward the Isle of Skye. The weather is just typical Scottish weather. Lots of clouds, a bit of blue sky, and on/off rain. As we headed toward our lodgings at Kilmuir Park B/B, we pondered where our evening meal might be.

Let me tell you about Scottish roads! Almost all of them are mostly paved well with some having potholes, but they are all extremely narrow for two-lane roads. I swear I missed that tour bus by only 6 inches or so, and the next one, and the next one. It’s very common to come upon a sign “No pavement markings for 2 miles.” Then you can just drive where you want until a car or “lorry” approaches from the opposite direction. Doesn’t seem too bad, right? Except I haven’t got to the part to say about 50% of the roads are just one-lane roads with “Passing Place” signs. These are utilized whenever traffic on one way sections approach each other. Can’t tell you how many times I tried to pull off to the right to make room to see the opposing driver stop and look at me in a questioning/accusing way. I’d pulled off to the complete wrong side! Anyway, stop at a wide spot, “Passing Place” and get around each other. Often this is done at 30 to 40 mph.

PS – I have not crashed into anyone else – yet.

We’ve started to learn that there is practically no food served between 2pm and 5pm. Then having a table reserved is pretty important – most of the time.

We checked in with Ian at Kilmuir Park and deposited our bags in our very nice room with a view out to the west which included McDonald’s Table and other hills. Mostly there was a lot of grass and heather and bits of boggy water. Just walking out across the field is not an option. I tried that once to step of the trail to relieve myself, and ended up almost up to my knee in water. Will be more careful.

Deciding to drive into Portree, our trusty AygoX zipped us the 13 miles into the village of lots of tourists and narrow roads. Having streets laid out n/s, e/w is not even close to a thing here. Actually, getting to a roundabout is a blessing because everyone has to slow down even for a bit.

I did almost drive down a one way but reversed and saved by reputation by making a tour around the village square and finding a free parking space up by the large child care center. Checking in the Caberfeidh Bar and Restaurant we hit pay dirt and scored a nice table for two. Do not think that if you are a two-some and walk into an eating establishment that you will get anything except a table set for two – no, no, no. Nevertheless, service was efficient, pleasant, and prompt – except for at the end. They almost refuse to bring you your bill! They probably would when your time is up but we’re definitely not used to that. We just don’t want to be rude or dumb – so either wave them over or just go up to the front/bar and ask to settle your check. They’re not offended and are quite happy you’ve made the move.

Evidently, and this seems to be the absolute deal, you get a table for 1.5 hours and then you are expected to leave. We don’t use that much time for meals so it’s just fine.

We both had delicious ‘smash’ burgers with a Black Isle Scotch Ale – very tasty. Just when you want a burger, they’re just about impossible to find, yet here was a good one.

Dropped into the town market for a couple bottles of wine, and headed back to Kilmuir Park for a glass and dessert treats in our “personal” lounge. Funny thing was though…our “lounge” had a wood stove in an alcove which was open to another “lounge” for another guest room down at knee level – definitely a strange set-up yet we enjoyed our quiet time (didn’t want to disturb the other couple sitting in their lounge, or make a bunch of noise ourselves).

After that, we retired to our very comfortable room for the night

Thursday, Aug 7 – Trotternish Peninsula, Fairy Places, and Talisker Distillery.

Our plan was to sight-see the coast of the Trotternish Peninsula, do some walks, and taste some Isle of Skye whisky. (WHISKY in Scotland; WHISKEY in Ireland/US).

After a typically fabulous Scottish B/B breakfast, we headed back over toward Portree (pour – tree), to begin our circumnavigation of the Trotternish Peninsula, to the most northern point on the Isle of Skye.

Why the Isle of Skye? There are actually some fairly large and foreboding mountains on Skye that are mountaineering objectives. They are only around 4,000’ but they are very steep. Also, they have virtually no trees anywhere, so hanging on to one is not a way to protect yourself while climbing. Lots of exposure to long falls. We came to see these and get a sense of what mountaineers of Great Britain cut their teeth on.

Again, the roads were extremely challenging. One lane road, with “passing places”, and 60 mph speed limits. Just a bit crazy! Have to say though the speed limits change constantly around villages – and our car has such good navigation, it is constantly beeping to tell you there has been a speed limit change. I think I’m just to the point of ignoring it and just flowing with the other traffic.

The Lealt Gorge was a stopping place and we walked out to the bluff to see that old diatomite plant ruins down on the beach – in the 30+ mph winds, but sun. Great waterfall.

Coffee and juice caught up to us and we stopped at the Staffen Village community center for a comfort stop. Lots of other tourists doing the same.

Back on the almost-constant one-lane road, we traversed around to Uig village, where the ferry loads truck and vehicles to go out to the Outer Hebrides islands. The ferries take hours to get there.

After missing the turn twice, we travelled the even more narrow lane out to Fairy Glen. It was only about 4 miles but seemed to take forever.

Scotland is very connected to internet and cellular services. Every remote parking lot has a card reader that connects almost immediately to your bank. There’s no entrance fee but there is always a parking fee. Not overly pricey but a solid 4£ every time.

Our walk over and around the fairy mounds was pleasant and breezy. These are 50-70’ mounds on the side of the valley strangely arranged. Let me tell you; the Scots love their fairies. The fairies do everything from protect Scots to turn into sheep. We even found the place where fairies wash their clothes – don’t swim there or touch the water.

Now, on down the west side of the island to Carabost and the Talisker Disillery. We did decide to have lunch before our 4pm tour, so we pulled in to the Old Inn where I had Mac/Cheese and Elaine had Goat Cheese Salad. Wimpy dark beer.

The village of Carabost looks like it’s been here since 1930 – probably has been – or even earlier. The Talisker Distillery is a high tech, slick tourist destination. Our “tour” consisted of sitting in a presentation room (cool though) for a high tech video/audio show interspersed with a tasting of the Talisker whiskies. They are good. Nothing cheap here. You can spend as much as you want or a modest amount to get a decent single malt Scotch. We purchased a bottle of Talisker Skye, which we had tasted and like the taste of.

We were not done for the day. Our route took us to the Fairy Pools. Now, I was hoping for a hot tub and some skimpily clad fairies – but we ended up walking up a stream with many other visitors toward some foreboding mountains and innumerable waterfalls that were really beautiful. It was a good 1.5 hour walk ended with a drive back to Kilmuir Park for our second night there.