West Highland Way Gave Us a Wet Kiss Goodbye

Tuesday, August 5

We awoke at our normal time and readied our suitcases to be taken over to Fort William for us. A nice hot Scottish breakfast was waiting for us at 8am as usual. After finishing up, and getting our bags into the storage, we started out with some blue skies and clouds above us as we headed for our final destination on this walking tour, Fort William.

The route led us across the River Leven and along the road for a short distance, then we crossed the road at the WHW trail sign and started up. It was a moderate climb on a good trail with some stone cobble sections. Finally, we came out into the open above the trees and joined a wide track that looked like it could be a service road. We were high up between the surrounding hills heading gently up and up.

Part way along, it started to look pretty dark in the distance and we guessed we were in for some rain. Usually at home the wind calms a bit before it starts to rain. Here, the wind picks up and drives the rain into every nook and cranny. It really started to rain and blow hard. We got on our rain gear as best we could and trudged on.

The trail had become a series of stream crossings, creeks under our feet, and large puddles of water that we had to work around off the road. There were many others on the trail that day and they all had to deal with this rain storm and wind. But no one really seemed to mind too much.

We did discover that our gear was working about as well as we could have hoped. Once I found that I could tie my hood cords together, I could keep my hood in place nicely. Elaine’s hood stayed put because of the hat and other jacket she wore.

We knew this 15-mile day would be sort of tough, and it proved itself to meet that expectation. We were often saying “hi” to others along the way, or just nodding to acknowledge that it was not the best of weather.

Finally, before we got too close to Fort William, the rain and wind subsided yet we still were navigating a lot of areas of water and running rivulets as the track went up and down.

We came across a couple walking that we’d seen a few times. Home locations were exchanged and we walked along with these folks from the Boston area for a mile or so. They thought the West Highland Way was quite a bit more difficult than they were used to. We chatted pleasantly for a while and then parted ways as they slowed and took breaks.

We had to walk about a mile through Fort William which is quite a bustling town. Most of the time we were in a very retail area with shops and restaurants. At the end of the High Street, we walked another few hundred yards to Myrtle Bank Guest House, the last tour-arranged lodging. Reception was the least personal of our stays yet the receptionist was polite, efficient, and helpful. We were given a very comfortable and well-appointed room with everything we have come to expect – nothing less than excellent!

After we settled in, we walked back to town to have dinner at Crannog Garrison West where we thought we’d have pub type food but it was not. This was definitely a seafood restaurant. Elaine ordered Cullen Skink, which was 3/5 on her Yummy Scale, and I had Fish (haddock) and Chips which was definitely 5/5 yummy! It all worked out fine and we were back to settle in for the evening an hour and a half later.

All in all, a super good way to finish the West Highland Way walk, with tomorrow bringing a new twist to our Scotland adventures – off to the Isle of Skye in a rental car.